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A Primer · Asheville, NC

How to Think About Food Insecurity

The companion question to homelessness. What food insecurity is, what it is not, and why the number of hungry people in a county is set less by anyone's character than by arithmetic we can change. Start here on food.

START HERE

Food insecurity is among the most carefully measured conditions in American life, and among the most often misread. The phrase sounds like a gentler word for hunger. It means something more exact. It describes a household that cannot count on having enough food, not because no one there can cook or shop, but because the money gives out before the month does.

That gap, between what the word says and what people hear, is where this piece starts. Most arguments about hunger quietly trade one question for another. They ask why a given person went without a meal, when the harder and more useful question is why a given county has the number of hungry people it has. The first question is about a life. The second is about an economy, and it has an answer we can change.

The size of the hungry crowd is not fixed in advance. It is the sum of wages, prices, and how much help the public decides to send.

THE WORDS What the words actually mean

Three different numbers get used as if they were one. They are not, and the difference is much of the point.

The federal measure runs on a ladder. At the top, a household is food secure: steady access to enough food for every member, all year. Below that line sits food insecurity, and it has two rungs. Low food security usually shows up as a thinner, cheaper, more monotonous diet and a constant low worry about running out. Very low food security is the harder floor, where people skip meals, shrink portions, and sometimes go a whole day without eating because the money is gone.

This matters because the word hunger points at the body, a physical feeling in one person. Food insecurity points at the household budget, a condition you measure with a survey rather than read on a face. By the federal count, 13.7 percent of American households were food insecure in 2024. That is about 18.3 million homes holding 47.9 million people. The most severe rung, very low food security, reached 5.4 percent, roughly 7.2 million households. In all, 14.1 million children lived in food-insecure homes.

A second number describes a program, not a condition. About 41.7 million people a month received SNAP, the country's largest food benefit, in the 2024 fiscal year, close to one in eight Americans. A third number counts the people who turn to food banks in a given year, and it spikes in a crisis. SNAP caseload, the household survey, and the pantry line each measure a different thing. Mashed into one figure they mislead; kept apart they tell you how wide the problem runs, who the government reaches, and who is left at the charity door.

THE DECADE The experiment we ran by accident

The clearest evidence that hunger answers to policy is the last five years, when the country tested the question without meaning to.

10.2%
of U.S. households food insecure in 2021, the lowest on record
USDA ERS
13.7%
food insecure in 2024, back to an elevated level
47.9M
people in food-insecure households, 2024
USDA ERS

In 2021, food insecurity fell to its lowest level in the years the federal survey has tracked it: 10.2 percent of households. That was not the reward of a booming economy; the economy was still shaking off a pandemic. It was the result of an unusual run of public support, expanded SNAP, stimulus payments, an enlarged Child Tax Credit, free school meals. Money reached households, and fewer of them went short of food.

Then the supports came off and prices climbed. By 2023 the rate was back to 13.5 percent, and in 2024 it held at 13.7. The one-year move from 2023 to 2024 was small enough that the government's own statisticians call it flat. What changed was the climb back up out of 2021. The line went down when help went up, and rose when help came off. Few social numbers draw the cause this plainly. The whole experiment, and the 2025 decision to run it again, is traced in When the Aid Stops.

THE DRIVER Not a knowledge problem

Food insecurity tracks one thing above all others, and it is not cooking skill.

The strongest predictor of an empty cart is a thin wallet. In 2024, nearly 40 percent of households below the federal poverty line were food insecure, against the 13.7 percent national rate. The condition follows income, not nutrition education, not willpower, not a missing recipe. Overwhelmingly, people who are food insecure are people who do not earn enough to cover their costs.

Locally that gap has a number. Just Economics of Western North Carolina set a living wage for a single adult in Buncombe County at $24.10 an hour for 2026. A great deal of the work that keeps Asheville running pays well under that. The distance between what a job pays and what rent and groceries cost is the same distance that turns up, months later, as a cart with less in it. That is arithmetic about pay and prices, not a flaw in the person pushing it.

The problem is also more rural than the Asheville skyline suggests. Feeding America's modeled county estimates, which run roughly two years behind, place about 86 percent of the counties with the highest food-insecurity rates in rural America. The mountain counties ringing Buncombe tend to run higher than the city itself, where reaching a full-service grocery store can mean a thirty-minute drive. Asheville's own rate sits below those of the rural counties around it, which is not the comfort it sounds like.

THE TWO LEVERS What actually moves the number

Two systems stand between a low income and an empty table. They are not the same size, and pretending they are does real harm.

The first is SNAP, a federal benefit loaded onto a card each month and spent like cash at the grocery store. It reaches about 41.7 million people. The second is the charitable food system, the network of food banks and pantries that collects most of the donations and most of the public's attention.

The ratio is not close. By Feeding America's accounting, the federal program does roughly nine times what the entire charitable network does, a gap laid out to scale in Why Food Banks Can't Fix Hunger. That single fact reframes a familiar instinct. Giving to the food bank is good and needed. It cannot substitute for the federal benefit, because the two work at completely different scales. MANNA FoodBank, the region's own food bank in Mills River, draws the same boundary about its own work: no amount of philanthropy can stand in for the federal benefit once it is pulled away.

There is a recent test of what happens when it is pulled away: when pandemic-era SNAP emergency allotments ended in early 2023, food hardship rose within months by a measurable amount, roughly 2 million more Americans without enough to eat. That experiment, and the country's decision to rerun it at a larger scale, is laid out in When the Aid Stops.

HERE What it looks like in Buncombe

The national story did not skip Western North Carolina. A storm made it sharper.

Before Hurricane Helene, roughly one in five adults across Western North Carolina reported limited or uncertain access to food, according to regional reports. In the rural counties the share ran higher still. In Buncombe County, about 25,000 residents relied on SNAP as of mid-2026, down from about 29,000 a year earlier as tighter federal rules, not falling need, thinned the rolls. These are not, for the most part, people at the edge of homelessness. They are the far larger group feeling the squeeze early, at the grocery store.

Then, on September 27, 2024, Helene hit all of it at once. The storm cut off food supply, pushed families out of work and out of housing, and drowned MANNA's own warehouses on the Swannanoa River, forcing the food bank to relocate to Mills River just to keep its trucks moving. The region's pantry traffic, already heavy, has not come back down. MANNA's food pantries now log more than 200,000 visits a month, the highest sustained level in its history, and the line has not returned to its pre-storm level.

Where that food strain leads, when no one catches it, is the subject of a companion piece in this work. Hunger and homelessness are one strain read at two moments, the skipped meal arriving long before the lost home. That timeline is laid out in Before the Tent.

We are about to stop counting.

The 13.7 percent figure comes from a USDA report that, by the government's own September 2025 announcement, it does not plan to publish again. The country is putting away the yardstick for hunger at the same moment new reductions to SNAP take effect. A number that is no longer measured does not stop being true. It only gets easier to ignore.

The point

Hunger is made by wages and prices, and what we make, we can change.

Food insecurity is the gap between what a household can earn and what food and rent cost, surfacing first at the grocery store. It is the sum of what jobs pay, what groceries cost, and how much help the public decides to send, and it falls every time those move in people's favor. The low point of 2021 proved the floor can be raised. The rebound that followed proved it can be lowered again, on purpose.

So the food bank is the right place to give and the wrong place to stop, because what sets the number is public, not charitable. Steady benefits, a wage that reaches the cost of living, and the affordable housing underneath both work on the whole problem at once. Hunger and homelessness are not two separate bills. The same fault line runs under both, and we can meet people early, in the pantry line, or late, in the tent. The arithmetic is the same. The choice is ours.

Sources & notes

National figures: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service, Household Food Security in the United States in 2024 (released December 2025), reporting 13.7 percent of households (18.3 million households, 47.9 million people) food insecure, 5.4 percent (7.2 million households) with very low food security, and 14.1 million children in food-insecure households; the 2024 rate was not statistically different from the 13.5 percent recorded in 2023. The 2021 low of 10.2 percent and the 2022 to 2024 figures are from the same ERS series. USDA has announced it does not plan to publish the report again.

SNAP reaching about 41.7 million people per month in fiscal year 2024 (USDA SNAP data, via the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health). The ratio of roughly nine SNAP-provided meals to every one provided by the charitable food network is Feeding America's published figure. The effect of ending pandemic SNAP emergency allotments in 2023 reflects the Federal Reserve (FEDS Working Paper 2023-46) and a subsequent analysis in Health Affairs (2024). The rural concentration of high-food-insecurity counties (about 86 percent) is from Feeding America's Map the Meal Gap 2025 modeled estimates, which trail current conditions by roughly two years. These are national and modeled figures, labeled as such.

Local figures: approximately one in five Western North Carolina adults reporting limited or uncertain food access before Helene (regional reporting; pre-2024 data); approximately 25,000 Buncombe County residents relying on SNAP as of mid-2026, down from about 29,000 in 2025 (NCDHHS); a living wage of $24.10 per hour for a single adult in Buncombe County (Just Economics of Western North Carolina, 2026). MANNA FoodBank (Feeding America affiliate serving 16 Western North Carolina counties and the Qualla Boundary) logs more than 200,000 monthly pantry visits as of mid-2026, the highest sustained level in its history and still climbing; the Community Foundation of Western North Carolina reported more than 170,000 monthly visits in September 2025, a 42-year record (MANNA and Community Foundation of Western North Carolina reporting, 2025 to 2026). Helene made landfall in Florida on September 26, 2024, and its remnants caused catastrophic flooding in Western North Carolina on September 27, destroying MANNA's Swannanoa River warehouses and forcing relocation to Mills River.

Found an error? Tell us and we will correct it. The framing and conclusions here are our own.

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