How to Think About Food Insecurity
What food insecurity is and isn't, and why the number of food-insecure people in a county depends less on anyone's character than on arithmetic we can change.
Food insecurity is one of the most carefully measured problems in America, and one of the most misunderstood. The phrase sounds like a gentler way of saying hunger, but it means something more exact. It describes a household that can't count on having enough food because the money runs out before the month does.
Most arguments about hunger ask why one person went without a meal. The harder and more useful question is what determines the number of food-insecure people in a county. The first question is about a life, and the second is about an economy.
That number is not fixed in advance. It's determined by wages, prices, and how much public help we choose to give.
Three different numbers get used as if they were one.
The federal measure works like a ladder. At the top, a household is food secure: steady access to enough food for every member, all year. Below that is food insecurity, which has two rungs. Low food security means a household has trouble affording food and eats a lower-quality diet, sometimes with less variety. But there's little or no drop in how much people eat. Very low food security is the lower rung, where people skip meals, shrink portions, and sometimes go a whole day without eating because the money is gone.
This matters because the word hunger points to a physical feeling in one person's body. Food insecurity points to the household budget. It's measured with a survey, not read on someone's face. By the federal count, 13.7 percent of American households were food insecure in 2024. That's about 18.3 million households, with 47.9 million people in them. The most severe rung, very low food security, reached 5.4 percent, roughly 7.2 million households. In all, 14.1 million children lived in food-insecure homes.
A second number describes a program, not the problem itself. In the year from October 2023 through September 2024, about 41.7 million people a month received SNAP, the country's largest food benefit. That's close to one in eight Americans. A third number counts the people who turn to food banks each year, and it spikes in a crisis. Each of these three numbers measures something different. Mashed into one figure, they mislead. Kept apart, they tell you how big the problem is, who the government reaches, and who is left to turn to charity.
The clearest evidence that policy can move food insecurity comes from the years 2020 through 2024.
In 2021, 10.2 percent of households were food insecure, the lowest rate of any year from 2001 through 2024. It was about the same as in 2019, before the pandemic. Unemployment averaged more than 5 percent in 2021, compared with less than 4 percent in 2019, so good times weren't the reason. Government aid was unusually generous: expanded SNAP, stimulus payments, a bigger Child Tax Credit, free school meals. The Center on Budget and Policy Priorities says the SNAP increases and other temporary policies helped keep overall food insecurity from rising in any meaningful way.
Then the temporary support ended and food prices climbed. By 2023 the rate was up to 13.5 percent, and in 2024 it was 13.7 percent. The government's own statisticians call the 2024 rate essentially unchanged from the year before, but what mattered was the rise since 2021. The rate held low while help was high.
Food insecurity tracks one thing above all others: income.
In 2024, nearly 40 percent of households below the federal poverty line were food insecure, compared with 13.7 percent of all households. Food insecurity does not come down to nutrition education, willpower or a missing recipe. Overwhelmingly, people who are food insecure don't have enough money to cover their costs.
Locally, there's a number for what a worker has to earn to afford the basics. Just Economics of Western North Carolina set a living wage for a single adult in Buncombe County at $24.10 an hour for 2026. A lot of the work that keeps Asheville running pays well under that. The gap between what a job pays and what rent and groceries cost shows up as a cart with less in it. That's just the math of pay and prices.
The problem is also more rural than the Asheville skyline suggests. Feeding America uses a statistical model to estimate food insecurity in every county in the country. Of the 10 percent of counties with the highest rates, about 86 percent are rural. The numbers are about two years behind. For 2024, four of the seven counties that border Buncombe had higher rates than Buncombe itself. In rural communities across the mountains, reaching a grocery store can mean a 30-minute drive.
Buncombe's lower rate isn't as comforting as it sounds. Distance is the rural version of the problem, and the city has its own. In the Census Bureau's 2020 to 2024 estimates, 13.9 percent of Asheville renter households had no car, compared with 1.8 percent of the households that owned their home. Of the city's households with no car, 87.7 percent were renters.
Two kinds of help stand between a low income and an empty table. They are not the same size, and pretending they are does real harm.
The first is SNAP, a federal benefit loaded onto a card each month and spent like cash at the grocery store. The second is charity: food banks and pantries, which get most of the donations and public attention.
Feeding America says that for every meal from its network of about 200 food banks, SNAP provides roughly nine. Why Food Banks Can't Fix Hunger draws that gap to scale. Giving to the food bank is good and needed, but it cannot replace SNAP. MANNA FoodBank, the region's food bank in Mills River, makes the same point about its own work: no amount of charity can stand in for government help once it's pulled away.
There's already been a test of what happens when that help is pulled away. The extra SNAP benefits added during the pandemic stopped after February 2023 in the 35 states and territories still paying them. Within months, more SNAP households there said they didn't always have enough to eat, or the kinds of food they wanted. When the Aid Stops covers that test and Congress's decision in July 2025 to cut SNAP again, this time in permanent law.
SNAP enrollment has dropped. By USDA's preliminary count, 36.1 million people were enrolled in July 2026, about 13 percent fewer than a year earlier. That figure was current as of October 9, 2026. The decline came after the 2025 budget law. That law ended SNAP for refugees, people granted asylum, and some other groups of immigrants who are in the country legally. It also applied the three-month work rule to more people. Who Loses SNAP Now looks at who is leaving the program, and why.
The national story reached Western North Carolina, and Hurricane Helene made things worse.
Before the storm, a 2021 regional health survey asked adults across Western North Carolina two questions about running short of money for food. Roughly one in five said yes to one or both. For the most part, these are not people on the edge of homelessness. They're the far larger group feeling the squeeze early, at the grocery store.
Then, on September 27, 2024, Helene hit. All at once, the storm cut off food supplies, pushed families out of work and out of their homes, and drowned MANNA's own warehouses on the Swannanoa River. That sped up the food bank's planned move to a warehouse in Mills River. The region's food pantries were already busy, and they haven't slowed down. By MANNA's count, they were logging more than 220,000 visits a month on average as of August 2026. MANNA says the need is the highest it has seen in more than four decades of serving the region.
In Buncombe County, about 25,000 residents relied on SNAP as of September 2026, down from about 29,000 in April 2025.
Before the Tent traces where trouble affording food leads when no one steps in. Hunger and homelessness are often the same money problem at two different stages: the skipped meal comes long before the lost home.
We have stopped counting.
The 13.7 percent figure comes from USDA's yearly food-security report. In September 2025, USDA said it was scrapping the report, and it does not plan to publish another. The count ends just as new SNAP cuts take effect. Food insecurity doesn't go away when we stop counting it. It only gets easier to ignore.
Food insecurity follows pay, prices and public help.
Food insecurity is the gap between the money a household has and what food and rent cost. It shows up first at the grocery store. The low point of 2021 showed that food insecurity can be held down, even through a pandemic. The rate went back up as pandemic relief ended and food prices rose.
So the food bank is the right place to give and the wrong place to stop. Steady benefits, a living wage, and affordable housing all work on the whole problem.
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