An independent project ·Why this exists ·How this is made ·Research
Asheville · Western North Carolina
Step Up AVL
How to Think About Food Insecurity · Asheville, NC

How to Think About Food Insecurity

What food insecurity is and isn't, and why the number of food-insecure people in a county depends less on anyone's character than on arithmetic we can change.

THE QUESTION

Food insecurity is one of the most carefully measured problems in America, and one of the most misunderstood. The phrase sounds like a gentler way of saying hunger, but it means something more exact. It describes a household that can't count on having enough food because the money runs out before the month does.

Most arguments about hunger ask why one person went without a meal. The harder and more useful question is what determines the number of food-insecure people in a county. The first question is about a life, and the second is about an economy.

That number is not fixed in advance. It's determined by wages, prices, and how much public help we choose to give.

THE WORDS What the words actually mean

Three different numbers get used as if they were one.

The federal measure works like a ladder. At the top, a household is food secure: steady access to enough food for every member, all year. Below that is food insecurity, which has two rungs. Low food security means a household has trouble affording food and eats a lower-quality diet, sometimes with less variety. But there's little or no drop in how much people eat. Very low food security is the lower rung, where people skip meals, shrink portions, and sometimes go a whole day without eating because the money is gone.

This matters because the word hunger points to a physical feeling in one person's body. Food insecurity points to the household budget. It's measured with a survey, not read on someone's face. By the federal count, 13.7 percent of American households were food insecure in 2024. That's about 18.3 million households, with 47.9 million people in them. The most severe rung, very low food security, reached 5.4 percent, roughly 7.2 million households. In all, 14.1 million children lived in food-insecure homes.

A second number describes a program, not the problem itself. In the year from October 2023 through September 2024, about 41.7 million people a month received SNAP, the country's largest food benefit. That's close to one in eight Americans. A third number counts the people who turn to food banks each year, and it spikes in a crisis. Each of these three numbers measures something different. Mashed into one figure, they mislead. Kept apart, they tell you how big the problem is, who the government reaches, and who is left to turn to charity.

THE DECADE The experiment we ran by accident

The clearest evidence that policy can move food insecurity comes from the years 2020 through 2024.

10.2%
of U.S. households food insecure in 2021, the lowest of any year from 2001 through 2024
USDA ERS
13.7%
food insecure in 2024, up from the 2021 low
47.9M
people in food-insecure households, 2024
USDA ERS

In 2021, 10.2 percent of households were food insecure, the lowest rate of any year from 2001 through 2024. It was about the same as in 2019, before the pandemic. Unemployment averaged more than 5 percent in 2021, compared with less than 4 percent in 2019, so good times weren't the reason. Government aid was unusually generous: expanded SNAP, stimulus payments, a bigger Child Tax Credit, free school meals. The Center on Budget and Policy Priorities says the SNAP increases and other temporary policies helped keep overall food insecurity from rising in any meaningful way.

Then the temporary support ended and food prices climbed. By 2023 the rate was up to 13.5 percent, and in 2024 it was 13.7 percent. The government's own statisticians call the 2024 rate essentially unchanged from the year before, but what mattered was the rise since 2021. The rate held low while help was high.

THE DRIVER Not a knowledge problem

Food insecurity tracks one thing above all others: income.

In 2024, nearly 40 percent of households below the federal poverty line were food insecure, compared with 13.7 percent of all households. Food insecurity does not come down to nutrition education, willpower or a missing recipe. Overwhelmingly, people who are food insecure don't have enough money to cover their costs.

Locally, there's a number for what a worker has to earn to afford the basics. Just Economics of Western North Carolina set a living wage for a single adult in Buncombe County at $24.10 an hour for 2026. A lot of the work that keeps Asheville running pays well under that. The gap between what a job pays and what rent and groceries cost shows up as a cart with less in it. That's just the math of pay and prices.

The problem is also more rural than the Asheville skyline suggests. Feeding America uses a statistical model to estimate food insecurity in every county in the country. Of the 10 percent of counties with the highest rates, about 86 percent are rural. The numbers are about two years behind. For 2024, four of the seven counties that border Buncombe had higher rates than Buncombe itself. In rural communities across the mountains, reaching a grocery store can mean a 30-minute drive.

Buncombe's lower rate isn't as comforting as it sounds. Distance is the rural version of the problem, and the city has its own. In the Census Bureau's 2020 to 2024 estimates, 13.9 percent of Asheville renter households had no car, compared with 1.8 percent of the households that owned their home. Of the city's households with no car, 87.7 percent were renters.

THE TWO LEVERS What actually moves the number

Two kinds of help stand between a low income and an empty table. They are not the same size, and pretending they are does real harm.

The first is SNAP, a federal benefit loaded onto a card each month and spent like cash at the grocery store. The second is charity: food banks and pantries, which get most of the donations and public attention.

Feeding America says that for every meal from its network of about 200 food banks, SNAP provides roughly nine. Why Food Banks Can't Fix Hunger draws that gap to scale. Giving to the food bank is good and needed, but it cannot replace SNAP. MANNA FoodBank, the region's food bank in Mills River, makes the same point about its own work: no amount of charity can stand in for government help once it's pulled away.

There's already been a test of what happens when that help is pulled away. The extra SNAP benefits added during the pandemic stopped after February 2023 in the 35 states and territories still paying them. Within months, more SNAP households there said they didn't always have enough to eat, or the kinds of food they wanted. When the Aid Stops covers that test and Congress's decision in July 2025 to cut SNAP again, this time in permanent law.

SNAP enrollment has dropped. By USDA's preliminary count, 36.1 million people were enrolled in July 2026, about 13 percent fewer than a year earlier. That figure was current as of October 9, 2026. The decline came after the 2025 budget law. That law ended SNAP for refugees, people granted asylum, and some other groups of immigrants who are in the country legally. It also applied the three-month work rule to more people. Who Loses SNAP Now looks at who is leaving the program, and why.

HERE What it looks like in Buncombe

The national story reached Western North Carolina, and Hurricane Helene made things worse.

Before the storm, a 2021 regional health survey asked adults across Western North Carolina two questions about running short of money for food. Roughly one in five said yes to one or both. For the most part, these are not people on the edge of homelessness. They're the far larger group feeling the squeeze early, at the grocery store.

Then, on September 27, 2024, Helene hit. All at once, the storm cut off food supplies, pushed families out of work and out of their homes, and drowned MANNA's own warehouses on the Swannanoa River. That sped up the food bank's planned move to a warehouse in Mills River. The region's food pantries were already busy, and they haven't slowed down. By MANNA's count, they were logging more than 220,000 visits a month on average as of August 2026. MANNA says the need is the highest it has seen in more than four decades of serving the region.

In Buncombe County, about 25,000 residents relied on SNAP as of September 2026, down from about 29,000 in April 2025.

Before the Tent traces where trouble affording food leads when no one steps in. Hunger and homelessness are often the same money problem at two different stages: the skipped meal comes long before the lost home.

We have stopped counting.

The 13.7 percent figure comes from USDA's yearly food-security report. In September 2025, USDA said it was scrapping the report, and it does not plan to publish another. The count ends just as new SNAP cuts take effect. Food insecurity doesn't go away when we stop counting it. It only gets easier to ignore.

The point

Food insecurity follows pay, prices and public help.

Food insecurity is the gap between the money a household has and what food and rent cost. It shows up first at the grocery store. The low point of 2021 showed that food insecurity can be held down, even through a pandemic. The rate went back up as pandemic relief ended and food prices rose.

So the food bank is the right place to give and the wrong place to stop. Steady benefits, a living wage, and affordable housing all work on the whole problem.

Sources & notes

National figures: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service, Household Food Security in the United States in 2024 (released December 2025), reporting 13.7 percent of households (18.3 million households, 47.9 million people) food insecure, 5.4 percent (7.2 million households) with very low food security, and 14.1 million children in food-insecure households; the 2024 rate was not statistically different from the 13.5 percent recorded in 2023. The 2021 figure of 10.2 percent is the lowest of any year from 2001 through 2024 (ERS, ERR-358, table 1a) and was not statistically different from the 10.5 percent of 2019 and 2020 (ERS, ERR-309); ERS measured 10.1 percent in 1999 (ERS, FANRR-29). The 2022 to 2024 figures are from the same ERS series. Unemployment: U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, Current Population Survey, monthly unemployment rate, seasonally adjusted (series LNS14000000, retrieved October 25, 2026); the monthly rates average 5.35 percent for 2021 and 3.68 percent for 2019 (our calculation). The Center on Budget and Policy Priorities says the emergency allotments and other temporary policies, along with SNAP's automatic growth to meet need, helped keep overall food insecurity from rising meaningfully in 2020 or 2021 compared with 2019 (CBPP, September 21, 2023). USDA has announced it does not plan to publish the report again.

SNAP reaching about 41.7 million people per month in fiscal year 2024 (USDA SNAP data, via the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health). Enrollment since: 41,603,048 people in July 2025 against 36,087,667 in July 2026, a fall of 13.3 percent, from USDA Food and Nutrition Administration, formerly the Food and Nutrition Service, "SNAP: Number of Persons Participating" (national table, data as of October 9, 2026); the table marks June and July 2026 preliminary and subject to significant revision, which is why the figure is given here as a rounded 36.1 million. The changes are in the One Big Beautiful Bill Act, H.R. 1, Public Law 119-21 (signed July 4, 2025): the able-bodied-adults-without-dependents age exemption moving from 55 to 65, so the three-month time limit now reaches ages 18 through 64; the dependent-child exemption limited to a household with a child under 14 instead of 18; the elimination of the exemptions for veterans, individuals experiencing homelessness, and former foster youth; waivers from the time limit limited to areas with unemployment over 10 percent (or, in Alaska and Hawaii only, at least 1.5 times the national rate); and SNAP eligibility for noncitizens limited to lawful permanent residents (still subject to the five-year waiting period unless exempt; USDA Food and Nutrition Service, Alien SNAP Eligibility Question and Answer #1, revised December 9, 2025), Cuban-Haitian entrants and COFA migrants (sec. 10108). The law also added an exemption from the time limit for American Indians, relevant to the Qualla Boundary that MANNA serves. USDA publishes the participation count and does not attribute the decline; the sequence stated here is that the fall followed the law, not that the law is its only cause. The ratio of roughly nine SNAP-provided meals for every one provided by the Feeding America network of about 200 food banks is Feeding America's published figure. MANNA chief executive Claire Neal's statement that the food bank cannot make up the difference and that philanthropy cannot replace government support is from Reuters (Leah Douglas and P.J. Huffstutter, October 25, 2025). Pandemic SNAP emergency allotments ended after February 2023 benefits were issued in 32 states, Washington, D.C., Guam and the U.S. Virgin Islands (CBPP, September 21, 2023). The effect of ending them: a Federal Reserve working paper (FEDS 2023-046, Dasgupta and Plum, July 2023) used the states' staggered end dates; a 2024 study in Health Affairs (Wells, Jackson, Leung and Hamad, October 2024) found that the expiration of the allotments in March 2023, in the 35 states and territories still providing them, led to an 8.4 percentage-point increase in marginal household food insufficiency among SNAP participants, a measure that includes any household reporting that in the last 7 days it had enough but not always the kinds of food it wanted, or sometimes or often not enough to eat. The estimate of roughly 2 million more Americans experiencing food insufficiency comes from a study of the 18 states that ended the allotments early (Richterman, Roberto and Thirumurthy, University of Pennsylvania, JAMA Health Forum, August 2023): applied to the entire U.S., its results imply that figure (Penn LDI, August 31, 2023). The rural concentration of high-food-insecurity counties (about 86 percent, 271 of the 316 counties in the highest 10 percent nationwide) is from Feeding America's Map the Meal Gap 2026 modeled estimates (2024 data, published July 2026), which trail current conditions by roughly two years. These are national and modeled figures, labeled as such. County rates are from Feeding America's Map the Meal Gap 2026 interactive map (2024 data): Buncombe 16.8 percent; Haywood 17.0, McDowell 17.9, Rutherford 19.3 and Yancey 18.1 percent; Madison 16.8; Henderson 16.1 and Transylvania 16.4 percent. The thirty-minute drive is from MANNA FoodBank's Micah Chrisman (NC Health News, October 15, 2024; Carolina Public Press, December 19, 2024).

Local figures: approximately one in five Western North Carolina adults food insecure before Helene (WNC Health Network, 2021 community health survey, as reported by NC Health News, October 15, 2024); the survey counted as food insecure an adult who said it was often or sometimes true that they worried their food would run out before they had money to buy more, or that the food they bought didn't last and they didn't have enough money to get more; approximately 25,000 Buncombe County residents relying on SNAP as of September 2026 (24,869 participants), against 27,441 in June 2025 and 29,123 in April 2025 (NCDHHS FNS Caseload Statistics, county participants); the state's counts do not say why people left; a living wage of $24.10 per hour for a single adult in Buncombe County (Just Economics of Western North Carolina, 2026). Household vehicle access in Asheville: U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey five-year estimates, 2020 to 2024, tables B25044 and B08201. Renter-occupied households with no vehicle, 2,500 of 17,981, margin of error 2.6 percentage points; owner-occupied, 351 of 19,413, margin 0.7 points; renters as a share of all households with no vehicle, 2,500 of 2,851, margin 6.7 points. MANNA FoodBank (Feeding America affiliate serving 16 Western North Carolina counties and the Qualla Boundary) logs more than 220,000 monthly pantry visits on average as of August 2026 (MANNA FoodBank spokesperson Micah Chrisman to WLOS, August 17, 2026), above the more than 170,000 a month that MANNA called the highest level in its 42-year history in September 2025 (MANNA FoodBank release published by the Community Foundation of Western North Carolina, September 17, 2025). In the same WLOS report, MANNA says it is facing the highest level of need in its more than four decades of serving Western North Carolina. Helene made landfall in Florida on September 26, 2024, and the storm caused catastrophic flooding in Western North Carolina on September 27, destroying MANNA's Swannanoa River warehouses and speeding a move to Mills River that was already under way (Carolina Public Press, December 19, 2024; 828 News Now).

Found an error? Tell us and we will correct it. The framing and conclusions here are our own.

For more information see: www.stepupavl.org

Step Up AVL · stepupavl.org

Will YOU step up?

Every group in our directory is local, vetted, and doing this work right now. Pick one and back it. →